How To Amuse A FairyGirl

Toying around with a few imaginative hobbies can be calming to most creative souls that have become overwhelmed with the toil of daily life; and would much rather wander a fictional world, whether it be in a game, a book or their own minds. Only problem is that these hobbies can be expensive, especially if you're only dabbling in it. This blog will feature the how to's in creating craft items, writings and cosplay that will amuse you and will not cause unimaginable pain to your bank account.

Wednesday 26 April 2017

Creating Gamuza, the Zanpukuto

If you want a fully functional Gamuza, short of it being able to sever limbs off, paper mache is the material to use for this project.
My material choice was a last resort though, since my efforts in attempting to mold the grip from clay ended up in a complete and total disaster, aesthetically and functionally.
Thinking back now, it was probably for the best; my zapukuto was light and I didn't have to be as careful about handling it as I was with my Arrancar mask.
Word of advice, you may want to make an additional velcro attachment from black material to latch your sword onto your costume's belt in order for the zanpukuto to hang at the side of your thigh instead of under your arm. Something I should have done because the hilt did tend to get in my way during the Fantasy Fayre 2017.

How to Craft Nel tu's Zanpukuto, Gamuza

The first thing you'll need is do is map out Gamuza's size dimensions before getting started. I got most its dimensions from a store online that sells the real deal, and guessed the rest based on what made the most sense to those dimensions. These are the measurements I used:

Overall Length: 102 cm
Blade Length: 68 cm
Blade Width: 3 cm
Blade Thickness: 4 mm
Hilt Length: 28 cm
Guard Length: 9 cm

Materials required:

Newspaper
Thick Cardboard
Pritt Glue
Dala Craft Paint (Black, White, Yellow, Blue)
Deco-Varnish Heat Resistant
Paint Brushes
Flour Paste with a few drops of Dish Washing Liquid
Paint Palette

Building The Bones.

Once you have your dimensions down, you can start sketching out the different parts of the zanpukuto onto your cardboard to create the skeleton around which you will shape Gamuza.

Compiled Gamuza Cardboard Skeleton

Step 1: The Blade

Wood cut out of
zanpukuto blades

I was actually quite fortunate to have my friend, who isn't afraid to risk losing some fingers, saw out Gamuza's blade from an old kiddies blackboard for me. But, I did make a cardboard version of the blade, just in case the blade would be to heavy for the hilt to hold up.

Blade Cardboard Cut Outs

Cut out two 68 cm x 3 cm, slight curved, blade pieces out of cardboard.
Remove of 1 centimeter along the entire outer edge on one of your blade pieces. Then, cut that piece longitudinally, down the middle, in half.

Glue the half pieces onto both sides of your other blade piece. This should define the sharp edge of the blade and give it a little more thickness.

Step 2: The Sheath

Sheath pieces: Full pieces
and Hollow pieces

Cut out five 70 cm x 5 cm, slightly curved pieces from your cardboard. Trace your blade into the middle of three of these cardboard pieces a cut them out, keep the outer pieces.

Stick hollow pieces together

Glue the Hollow pieces together so you end up with one thick Hollow sheath piece

Glue the Hollow pieces along the edges of your 2 remaining Full pieces, then stick the extra blade cut outs in the center of both sides of your Full pieces to complete your sheath skeleton.

Step 3: The Hilt

Cut out two 28 cm x 4 cm cardboard pieces, remember to add 3 cm x 3 cm centered extension on top of these pieces. This extension is important in that it will join your blade and guard to your hilt.

Cut out two 28 cm x 3 cm cardboard pieces.

Cut out two 28 cm x 2 cm cardboard pieces.

Glue the 28 cm x 2 cm in centers of your two 28 cm x 3 cm pieces and then glue these pieces in the center on both sides of your 28 cm x 4 cm pieces.

Glue your two 28 cm x 4 cm together. Do not stick the 3 cm x 3 cm extension to each other.

Step 4: The Guard

Like the Zanpukuto of the soul reapers, Arrancar zanpukuto are entirely unique to each arrancar, so this will be an important stage for you to get right if nothing else.

Nel tu's guard is shaped like two inter-locking mirror images of the letter D to me and I used that as a guideline to sketch and cut out four 9 cm x 5 cm cardboard pieces.

Cut a 3 cm slit in the center of all four pieces and then hollow out two pieces into the mirror image D's.

Glue these hollowed pieces into the Full pieces and then glue the Full pieces together.

Putting Flesh to Bone: Shaping Gamuza

Now comes the messy bit, and fun if you inclined towards it. I, personally, find I have little patience for paper mache; sticking small bits of paper to something one by one frustrates me to no end. But I had to admit to myself that the end result was worth all that mental pain.

Step 5

Using the your flour paste as glue, cover the hilt, blade, guard and sheath with newspaper until it has a rounder shape.

Remember to define the pommel at the end of your hilt, the mirror image D's on both sides of your guard and about 1 cm of the entrance of your sheath by making them slightly more thicker then the rest of the area.

Leave to dry.

To create the woven detail on the hilt, fold a few pieces of newspaper into zigzags and stick them onto both sides of your hilt. Squish the middle of each zigzag together and leave to dry.

Step 6

Once your Zanpukuto parts have dried, use flour paste with a thicker consistency to coat your hilt, guard, blade and sheathe.

You may need to leave this dry before adding the detailing of Gamuza, such as the outer edging of the Guard, the woven work and pommel of the hilt, and along the top entrance of your sheathe, with your flour paste.

Leave to dry, more importantly, leave to dry in a safe place. The dishwasher addition in the flour paste may protect your project from bugs, but will not prevent your dog from using your Zanpukuto parts as a chew toy. RIP my former guard piece; your loss still brings a tear of frustration to mine eye.

Compile your Zanpukuto once it has dried, you may need to use super glue for this step if you have some lying around.

Repair any cracks or damage and add any additional detailing with your flour paste.

Painting the Skin

I decided it would be best if I bought only the primary colours (red, yellow, blue) along with black and white to save myself some money; whatever additional colours I would need I could get by mixing two or more five colours together.

Step 7

Mix black and white paint onto to a paint palette, if you have one, or an old saucer. You need to add very little black and a whole lot of white to get a silvery colour.
Once you have the colour you want, paint the entire Zanpukuto silver as well as the top entry part of your sheath.
Leave to dry

Add a bit more white to the paint mix and paint the sharp edges of your blade a lighter silver.

If you wanted to, you can add a bit more black to the paint mix to better define the detailing on your guard, pommel, and the piece connecting your hilt and guard to your blade.

Leave to Dry

Mix your yellow and blue paint together to make green. You will need to use more yellow and a bit of blue in this case to get Gamuza's yucky Avocado Green colour.

Paint your sheathe and the woven detail on your hilt.

Leave to dry.

Add two coats of varnish and leave to dry to complete your Gamuza.

Thursday 13 April 2017

Creating the Complete Nel tu Arrancar Mask

Nel tu and Harribel at the Fantasy Fayre 2017
Photograph taken by
JC Photo

Crafting the Arrancar Mask for my Nelliel tu Odelschwank cosplay from clay was a purely aesthetic choice.
The end results I found on YouTube for the paper mache version looked horrendous to me, and I wanted Nel's mask to look as if it fell right out of the Bleach anime; fragile enough to crack and possibly, break under the blow of a Zanpukuto without detracting from its fearsome appearance.

A Hollow is not a Hollow without its signature mask, so it is important that you get this aspect of your costume just right if nothing else. If you are worried that you may not be skilled with molding clay, try it out first using pieces kiddies play dough or opt in for the paper mache version. I knew I was at least halfway decent with molding it since my niece and nephew seem to love whatever I create from their play dough.

Word of advice though, your mask, once hardened, will be relatively heavy. Do not choose to make it from clay if you cannot handle some weight on your head for a few a hours; and ONLY a few hours.

How to Craft Nel tu's Arrancar Mask

Before running off to buy your crafting material for this project, you will have decide which type of clay that you would like to use, Air Hardening Modelling Clay or Oven Bake Modelling Clay (Polymer Clay). I chose the Air Hardening option because 1) I didn't want to risk burning my house down, and 2) I would not be able correct any possible mistakes, mishaps or cracks on the mask while it bakes.

Once you decided which is better for your skill and time frame (air hardening will take longer) you can get started.

Materials Required:

Dala Craft Paint: White and Black.
Dala 577 Flat Pure Bristle Paint Brushes.
Dala Deco-Varnish: Heat Resistant
x2 Jovi Air-Hard Modelling Clay - White 1kg
A Large Bowl
Plastic Bag
A Steak Knife or Clay Modelling Tools
Newspaper
Flour paste and dish-washing liquid.
Fabric Elastic Band

If you need a budget breakdown of and the store that sells some of these materials, please check out my blog post Cosplaying Nelliel tu Odelschwanck. You might also need to keep a picture of Nel tu close by to determine if you're sticking to the general shape and dimension of her mask throughout this process.

Step 1

Make sure the bowl you're using can fit around your head, and place it inside the plastic bag. This will prevent the clay from sticking to your bowl while it dries.
Open the first packet of clay and flatten it around the outside of the bowl. Molding the clay will end up making your hands white, this however, can be cleaned off easily with just soap and water.
Using the tip of your steak knife, carve away extra clay to shape the outer edges of mask.
Shape the snout and upper jaw.

Step 2

Carve out the eyes, nostrils and eight teeth. Try not to carve to deeply into the eyes because the thinner layer is liable to crack and break away when it dries.
Work quickly, but carefully during this stage because your clay will start to dry if left to stand.
Brush the pads of your thumbs across the area of the mask to smooth away any cuts, bumps or cracks.
Cut openings or slits into the edge of your mask's 'cheekbones' for the fabric elastic band.

Step 3

Open your second packet of clay and divide it equally in two. Keep the one piece in its packaging and not exposed to the open air.
Roll the clay piece into the shape of Nel's horn and blend it into and along the edges of your mask face, curving the horn inward.
Take your other piece of clay and repeat.

Remember not to cover or clog to your elastic's holes with the horns.

Pinch out the horns ridges, these don't have to be shaped perfectly. In fact, I think the less perfect the ridges look the more realistic the horns will appear.

Place to dry for 24 to 48 hours.

Be sure to check in on your mask every now and then during this time, in case one of your horns happen to fall off.

Step 4

Once your mask is dry enough to move without damaging it, carefully remove the bowl and its plastic covering.

The inside of your mask may still be wet, so turn it over and repair any gaps or cracks around the outer edges and horns.

If you can without damaging your mask, try thinning it by scraping out any access wet clay, but stay away from the eye areas; they are thin enough.

Leave to dry for another 24 hours.